To Brine or Not To Brine

If you have never brined a turkey (or any piece of meat for that matter), you are probably thinking, what’s the big deal? Why spend the time to brine?

Brining your turkey ensures the meat to come out moist, even if you have to cook it a little longer than planned. This added effort gives you peace of mind that your turkey will not be overcooked and dry!

For you science nerds out there (and I’m one of them!), here is an explanation of how brining works, courtesy of Cooks Illustrated:

HOW BRINING WORKS
Brining works in accordance with two principles, called diffusion and osmosis, that like things to be kept in equilibrium.

When brining a turkey, there is a greater concentration of salt and sugar outside of the turkey (in the brine) than inside the turkey (in the cells that make up its flesh). The law of diffusion states that the salt and sugar will naturally flow from the area of greater concentration (the brine) to lesser concentration (the cells).

There is also a greater concentration of water, so to speak, outside of the turkey than inside. Here, too, the water will naturally flow from the area of greater concentration (the brine) to lesser concentration (the cells). When water moves in this fashion, the process is called osmosis.

Once inside the cells, the salt and, to a lesser extent, the sugar cause the cell proteins to unravel, or denature. As the individual proteins unravel, they become more likely to interact with one another. This interaction results in the formation of a sticky matrix that captures and holds moisture.

Once exposed to heat, the matrix gels and forms a barrier that keeps much of the water from leaking out as the meat cooks. Thus you have a turkey that is both better seasoned and much more moist than when you started. [see illustration below]

how brining works

So there you have it! Proof that brining is better, and here is a recipe for you to try out brining for yourself. Enjoy with family and friends and don’t forget to pour your favorite Lange Estate wine –this truly crowd-pleasing recipe will pair well with Pinot noir, Pinot gris, and Chardonnay.

Roast Brined Turkey with Herb Butter

For Brine:

½ large onion, chopped

6 cloves garlic, chopped

2 sprigs sage

1 sprig rosemary

1 Tbsp. black peppercorns

2 cups kosher salt

1 cup brown sugar

1 gallon water

1 gallon ice water

For Herb Butter:

1 lb. butter, softened

2 Tbsp. chopped parsley

1 Tbsp. chopped sage

1 Tbsp. chopped thyme

1 tsp. chopped rosemary

1 Tbsp. chopped shallots

salt & pepper to taste

For Turkey:

1 (14-16 lb.) turkey

½ large onion

several sprigs of thyme

2 sprigs each of sage & rosemary

Make Brine: In a large stock pot, sweat the onion, garlic, sage & rosemary in a little oil over medium-low heat until fragrant, but not browned. Add peppercorns, salt, sugar and 1 gallon of water. Heat until salt and sugar are dissolved, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely. Early on the day of cooking, (or late the night before) combine the brine and ice water in a clean 5-gallon bucket. Place thawed turkey, breast side down, in brine; cover and refrigerate, or set in a cool area, for 6 hours. Turn turkey over once, halfway through brining.

Make Herb Butter: Combine the softened butter, chopped herbs, shallots, salt, and pepper thoroughly (using the paddle attachment on an electric mixer works best). This can be made ahead but needs to be soft for spreading over turkey before roasting. (Roll any extra into a log using parchment paper, and freeze for later use on meat, fish, potatoes, rice, etc.)

Roast Turkey: Preheat oven to 500°F. Remove bird from brine and rinse inside and out with cold water. Discard brine.

Place bird on roasting rack inside roasting pan and pat dry with paper towels. Add the half onion to cavity along with thyme, rosemary & sage sprigs. Tuck back wings and coat the whole bird with softened herb butter. Don’t forget to spread some of the butter underneath the skin on the turkey breasts for added flavor on the white meat.

Roast on lowest level of the oven for 30 minutes. Remove from oven; cover breast with double layer of aluminum foil and return to oven, reducing temperature to 350°F. A 14- to 16-lb. bird should require a total of 2 to 21⁄2 hours of roasting. Remove from oven when thermometer inserted into the thickest part of breast reads 165°F. Let turkey rest, loosely covered for 15 minutes before carving.

 

 

A Fall Food & Wine Pairing

Trader Joe’s is a pretty fun store, if you ask me. On top of that, the Portland-area TJ’s love Lange Estate wines and keep a decent stock of them. Last night, I visited the TJ’s in Lake Oswego, thinking ravioli sounded good. That’s where I came across these: Butternut Squash Triangoli.TJ's Butternut Squash Triangoli

The checkout gal asked if I’d tried them before, and I shook my head. “They’re awesome,” she responded, adding that they were “rich and almost dessert-like.”

For the remaining twenty minutes of my drive, I pondered about how I would prepare these apparently-wonderful little triangles, using what I had already. I had the impression these little ravioli were slightly sweet (mashed in to the butternut squash filling, after all, were a few crushed amaretti cookies), so I thought maybe something tangy and savory might offset that. Decisions, decisions.

I am a fan of improvisational cooking. Even if I follow a recipe, I think, how can I make this more interesting? Last night, I just kind of threw it all together. And here is my spur-of-the-moment recipe:

* Melt butter in a non-stick sautee pan, and add a sploosh of olive oil.

* Carefully place triangoli in the pan (you don’t want them to break open), and toss gently to coat with the butter/oil. Sautee on medium-low heat for a few minutes.

* Add enough chicken stock (broth would be fine, too) to almost cover the triangoli. Add a douse of dry white wine. Up the heat a bit to where the liquid bubbles around the triangoli, and cover the pan. Cook for 5ish minutes to soften the triangoli.

* Remove the triangoli gently from the pan to a plate. Lower heat and add about 1/2 C of crumbled bleu cheese (the tangy & savory component) and a bit of milk to the stock/wine mixture. (Make sure the heat isn’t too high — dairy will curdle — you want it just hot enough to melt the cheese and incorporate the milk). Stir quickly and constantly, until the cheese melts and sauce thickens. Taste and season as you please.

* In the meantime, toast chopped pecans in a pan on medium-high heat (stir or agitate regularly, for about 2-3 minutes).

* Add triangoli back to sauce on the “warm” setting, cover, and let them be for a minute or two.

* Place triangoli on a plate, spoon sauce over the top, and sprinkle with toasted pecans. You can add meat, too, if you’d like — I recommend Sicilian Chicken Sausage from TJ’s.

* If you try to “eat a green thing every day,” serve with a leafy salad.

* And, most importantly, pair this with Lange Estate Winery 2009 Chardonnay “Three Hills Cuvee.” The luscious fruit of the Chardonnay stands up to the sweetness and richness of the ravioli; the bright acidity readies you for the next bite; and the almond notes of the triangoli play nicely with the creaminess and spice of the wine.

Buon Appetito!

Good Fodder from the PinotFile

About the Pinotfile:

The PinotFile is a unique biweekly online newsletter dedicated to keeping readers apprised of news in the pinotphile world including latest releases, wine reviews, winery news, winemaker profiles, what to buy, and how to get your hands on it. The Prince of Pinot, Rusty Gaffney, finds the small and larger producers that offer the ultimate in Pinot Noir satiation. No scores, no pretentiousness, and no unwarranted criticism. Explanation of the PinotFile scoring system

Lange Estate: Exceptional Wines in 2008

David and Diana Lett began the age of modern winegrowing in the Willamette Valley in 1966, with others such as Dick and Kena Erath, Dick and Nancy Ponzi, Susan and Bill Sokol Blosser, and David and Ginny Adelsheim following shortly thereafter. They were all seeking the same goal: to successfully grow Pinot Noir in a region previously considered too cold to ripen the grape that not only liked cool but was cool itself. These pioneers proved the naysayers wrong and before long, there were several thousand acres of Pinot Noir thriving in the Willamette Valley.

Don and Wendy Lange were to plant their claim in the Dundee Hills of the Williamette Valley in 1987, only a half mile from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, the 100-acre estate founded the same year by Robert Drouhin of Maison Joseph Drouhin of Beaune, Burgundy. The Lange’s small property was very modest in comparison, and when the Lange’s released their first commercial wine in 1987, they located their tasting room in the basement of their farmhouse, a homey venue that was to host many wine lovers until 1999. Today, the Langes have a modern winery and tasting room with panoramic views of the Cascade Mountain Range and the Willamette Valley landscape below.

The Lange’s chose to specialize in Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. The latter variety is of particular significance as Don was the fourth to plant Pinot Gris in the Willamette Valley and the first to release a barrel-fermented reserve. The wine is still produced today and is considered a benchmark for the varietal in Oregon.

Don’s talents as a winemaker were to bring quick success to Lange Estate Winery & Vineyards (noted wine writer Hugh Johnson called his work as winemaker “brilliant”). He strikes you as an unassuming sort with a twinkle in his eye (he would make a magnetic Santa Claus), but when you delve into his background, you find that he as an extremely talented singer-songwriter whose tunes have been sung and recorded by Pete Seeger, Christy Moore, and Kate Wolf, among many others. As his website (www.donlange.com) proclaims, “He is, simply, the finest songwriter to make great new world Pinot Noir and the best winemaker to ever write great
songs.”

Don attributes a large part of his success to his spouse, Wendy, who as CEO tends the day-to-day business of running the winery, the tasting room and the ever-present cadre of winery dogs. The Lange’s Shetland sheepdog, Lucy, is the September 2011 cover dog in the Wine Dogs USA calendar (www.winedogs.com). She has managed to imbibe the winery with a homey, welcoming atmosphere, and visitors are treated as if they were long time friends.

Jesse & Don Lange at Lange Estate Winery & Vineyard

Jesse & Don Lange at Lange Estate Winery & Vineyard

The third, and youngest member of the Lange family winery business is Jesse, a handsome, gregarious youth who is built like a major college football defensive back. Jesse joined the winemaking team in 2004 after his education. At the age of 20, he traveled to Central Otago, attending Lincoln University in Canterbury on an
exchange program from Oregon State University. Enrolled in the enology and viticultural program there, Jesse was dirt poor and had to sell eight fishing rods that he had brought with him from Oregon to help pay the bills. This was not an easy decision as Jesse is an avid fisher and the flies that are prominently displayed on the Lange Estate labels reflect this passion.

Jesse is very active in the Oregon wine industry, serving on several industry boards including the Dundee Hills Winegrowers Association, Oregon Pinot Camp, Willamette Valley Wineries Association and ¡Salud! Oregon Wine Auction.

Today Lange Estate is known for its exceptional wines from grapes grown on the 40-acre winery Estate Vineyard (35 acres of Pinot Noir, 3 acres of Chardonnay and 2 acres of Pinot Gris) that has plantings dating back to 1988. To supplement their 17,000 case production, the Langes buy additional fruit from top notch vineyards in the surrounding appellations. Their long-standing relationship with these sites have allowed the winery to establish a well-deserved reputation for consistency in their wines. Currently, the father and son duo bottle six different Pinot Noirs.

I visited Lange Estate after this year’s IPNC, toured the facility, tasted some precocious 2009 Pinot Noirs out of barrel, and sat down with Don and Jesse to sample wines from the 2008 and 2009 vintage. Three of the Pinot Noirs (Three Hills Cuvee, Estate Vineyard and Freedom Hill Vineyard) were tasted before IPNC at home, the striking quality of the wines prompting my visit. All the wines provide amazing fruit intensity at moderate alcohol levels framed with beautiful balance. Jesse notes that all the 2008 Lange Pinot Noirs are slowly showing better since bottling, but he advises patience for full enjoyment. The Lange Pinot Noirs in 2008 from Dundee Hills show more blue and black fruit than usual.

2009 Lange Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Gris 12.9% alc., 900 cases, $22. Aged 5 months in neutral oak puncheons which lend weight and texture to the wine. Primarily sourced from Yamhill Vineyards with some Eyrie Vineyard fruit planted in 1984. The flagship white wine from Lange. The aromatics are enticing, featuring scents of cut flowers, topical fruits and melons. Moderately rich on the palate with flavors of peaches and citrus zest with a mildly creamy mouth feel and a clean finish. A benchmark for Oregon Pinot Gris and a wine to cozy up to with roasted chicken or grilled salmon. Very good (+).

2009 Lange Three Hills Cuvee Willamette Valley Chardonnay 13.2% alc. Debut release from three vineyards in the Northern Willamette Valley – Lange Estate Vineyard, Freedom Hill Vineyard, and Durant Vineyards. Partially fermented for 6 months in stainless steel and neutral French oak. All Dijon clones. Similar in style to the winery’s Pinot Gris with bright, effusive fruitiness. Tropical fruit notes are prominent on the nose with hints of honeysuckle and Juicy Fruit. Bright and crisp on the palate with intense tutti fruiti, apple and citrus flavors rounding out a very refreshing wine. Good.

2008 Lange Reserve Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.7% alc., 1,500 cases, $32. Released November 1, 2009. Aged 11 months in 40% new French oak. Comprised of the most complex wines in the cellar, this is a multi-vineyard wine. All twelve vineyard sites are contributors which includes every soil type in the Willamette Valley and several appellations. Lovely aromas of dark red berries, cherries and a hint of nuts and alcohol. Rich and full-bodied on the attack with flavors of red plums, dark berries, cola and coffee. Caressing tannins and a silky texture with some fruity persistence on the finish. Good.

2008 Lange Three Hills Cuvee Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 720 cases, $40. Released May 1, 2010. A blend of grapes from Lange Estate Vineyard, Freedom Hill Vineyard and Yamhill Vineyards (1/3 each). This bottling debuted in 1997. Aged 12 months in 50% new French oak barrels. Moderately deep reddishpurple color in the glass. Very pretty aromatics featuring black cherries, black raspberries, savory spices and a hint of seasoned oak. Very tasty, even decadent flavors of darker red fruits with hi-toned spiced cherry and red licorice notes. Moderately rich with fine, sandy tannins and bright acidity. Can easily be drunk now, but will be even better with more bottle age. Very good.

pinotfile22008 Lange Estate Vineyard Dundee Hills Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 295 cases, $60. Released May 1, 2010. Aged 12 months in 50% new French oak barrels. Dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Very complex aromatics that constantly change in the glass revealing a diverse perfume of dark fruits, baking spices, underbrush, toast and smoke. Charming dark red and black fruit profile with well integrated oak toast and spice. Impressive persistence on the aromatic finish that sails along. Big, yet more demure than the Freedom Hill bottling with more emphasis on redder fruits. Beautifully composed with welcoming harmony. Definitely needs more time but can be a dinner table centerpiece with decanting. It is wines like this that make Pinot my paramour.

pinotfile22008 Lange Freedom Hill Vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 13.5% alc., 250 cases, $60. Released May 1, 2010. Lange has been sourcing fruit from Freedom Hill Vineyard since 1990 and began making its namesake single-vineyard Pinot Noir in 1996. Typically, the wines from this vineyard have more structure and tannins, making it a very age worthy wine. Moderately dark reddish-purple color in the glass. Restrained aromas of black cherries and blackberries on the nose with smoky oak taking charge. Big and juicy, thick and viscous, with serious fruit intensity. Dark fruits dominate the profile with an underlying earthiness. Mildly firm tannins reel in the massive fruit, and need time to soften. This is a huge wine that will make many California Pinots seem wimpy by comparison. Needs time to shed its oak and tame the explosion of fruit. An amazing gulp of old vines fruit. Ride this wine to heaven in a few years.

Vineyard Report: Bud Break

Bud Break: April 2010

Bud Break: April 2010

All plants, young and old, have leafed out… a very exciting time of the year as the agricultural side of our operation begins to demand a ton of energy and effort. The Dijon clone chardonnay is showing about 2.5 inches of shoot growth already (also, those same very plants are partly responsible for the inaugural Three Hills Cuvee Chardonnay we just bottled last week!).  We are busy planting a couple hundred pinot noir plants, dis-budding the trunks of established vines, and trying to get on top of the requirements of mowing between the rows. I feel another vintage of the century coming down the pike!

Jesse Lange
General Manager/Winemaker